Rhaphidophora tetrasperma has blown up on social media recently, and it’s hard not to love this miniature version of the Monstera deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant). In this post, I will provide care tips so that you can help your own Rhaphidophora tetrasperma thrive!
Habitat
Some of its common names are “Mini Monstera”, “Dwarf Monstera”, “Monstera Ginny” and “Ginny Philodendron.” But, this plant is neither a Monstera nor a Philodendron; it does, however, belong to the aroid family (Araceae) which contains the Monstera and Philodendron genera. Native to Southern Thailand and some parts of Malaysia, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma was discovered in 1890s.
Appearance
As you can see, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma has a unique and relatively distinct leaf profile. The fenestrated leaves generally seem to stay about the same size, not usually exceeding 10 inches in length, even if allowed to climb at will. Occasionally, they will also have one or two “windows”, though they are usually quite small and range from the size of a pin head to a pencil eraser. Perennial and evergreen, it grows best on a totem or some sort of vertical structure.
Sources
I purchased my first and only Rhaphidophora tetrasperma from eBay in August 2018, and they were much rarer then than now. Fast forward two years and some other great sources for plants are Amazon and Etsy. Since my purchase, I’ve pruned my mother plant at least four separate times and have started new plants from each cutting. I was not kidding when I said that it was prolific! Fortunately, prices have come down quite a bit and acquiring this awesome plant is much easier and more affordable.
Fortunately, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is relatively pest-free. I have heard of some people having to deal with thrips and spider mites, and I’ve had to deal with scale insects once in a while for my indoor plants. The plants I have outdoors don’t seem to be afflicted with pests very much, probably due to the extremes in environment and possible predation by beneficial insects. The best way of keeping on top of potential pest outbreaks is to examine your plants while your caring for them, and cleaning the leaves regularly.
Temperature
While Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is considered relatively rare in the wild, I have found that it grows readily and actively as a houseplant in less than jungle-y conditions. In a nice, humid greenhouse, it would probably become quite invasive. Even in Southern California, where I currently live, these plants will continue to throw out new leaves indoors during the winter. It is surprisingly tolerant of low temperatures, both indoors and outdoors, but is not frost-resistant. Inside the house, the average winter temperature range is 59°F – 68°F. Outdoors, it can range between 45°F – 61°F. Despite the lower temperatures outdoors, my plants exhibit no worse for wear; there is very little dieback, rotting or yellowing leaves. However, if you have cold and extremely wet weather almost constantly, I suspect that rot will set in quite quickly.
Light
Rhaphidophora tetrasperma needs bright indirect light. Avoid direct afternoon sunlight as it might scorch the leaves of your plant. East or west-facing windows are great, but caution should be exercised for south-facing windows; I have one of my plants at a south-facing window, but I’ve moved it back two feet to prevent sunburn.
If you only have a north-facing window or no windows at all, I would recommend using grow lights instead.
In an outdoor setting, it is best to grow your Rhapidophora tetrasperma in dappled shade, or beneath a shade structure. Direct light in morning and evening will be fine as long as it’s only for a few hours. If your plant’s leaves start to turn yellow (chlorosis), then it means you need to move your plant to a shadier location.
Watering
Like most jungle plants, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma prefers evenly moist soil. The pots should not sit in water and the soil should not be sopping wet. Sticking your finger into the first inch or two of soil will help you determine whether or not to water. If it’s dry, go ahead and water. If it feels slightly damp, maybe wait another day or two.
Humidity
This plant is extremely tolerant to low levels of humidity, which makes it perfect for indoor gardening. Even with the central heating kicking on for most of the winter, my Rhaphidophora tetrasperma plants still chug along happily, putting out leaf after leaf. That being said, please don’t ever put your plants too close to the radiator or right in the heated air stream coming directly from the vents–there’s only so much they can tolerate!
Soil
For most of my houseplants, I use a soil mix that I custom blend myself.
Fertilizer
My go-to fertilizers are usually Osmocote or liquid kelp. If you’re not the type that likes to remember to mix up fertilizer while you’re watering, I would recommend the Osmocote. The slow-release granules are perfect and can last for several months. On the other hand, liquid kelp is something that you would need to mix up and water into your plants manually. The fertilizing schedule is up to you. You can go full strength (read the instructions on the bottle) once a month, or you can dilute down and water every week (a.k.a. weakly weekly). Liquid kelp is awesome stuff, because unlike synthetic fertilizers, they don’t burn the leaves of your plants.
Pests
This plant seems to be able to avoid most pests. I have had some scale insects, but proper cleaning and maintenance has kept them at bay.
Toxicity
Keep out of reach of pets! Rhaphidophora tetrasperma contains calcium oxalates in its sap; if ingested, it can make your small pets very sick and cause severe irritation in the mouth and throat. It also can’t hurt to keep it out of the reach of small children.
Last Thoughts
All in all, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is a must-have plant and it’s no surprise that people are clamoring for it. It’s easy care and and perfect for adding that hint of “exotic jungle vibe” to your indoor garden!
Do you have a Rhaphidophora tetrasperma? If you do, what do you love about it the most?
Always Keep Growing,
Heather (a.k.a. The Botanical Chick)
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Mine went chlorotic starting with new leaves and moving down within a few months of having it. I bought another one and it’s doing the same thing. Older one was in lower light and grew up into brighter light. New one in medium light. So frustrating.
I’m sorry to hear that. What are you classifying as “brighter light” and “medium light”? Most of the time what the human eye sees as “bright light” may not be considered bright enough for plants, especially if it’s only bright for a short duration. One thing I would recommend would be to purchase a light meter, or, for no money at all, install a light meter app on your smartphone if you have one. Take a reading from outside in partial shade, and then compare that with the amount of light your plants are getting indoors. Generally, the amount of light that plants receive indoors tends to be far from what they would actually receive outside in nature. I would also recommend checking out The Houseplant Journal Blog (https://www.houseplantjournal.com/blog/) because Darryl really delves into lighting needs for houseplants.